Alaskan Expedition Vol. II and More

Almost one year after selling our stable household of 30 years, 

we began our next adventure in this thing we call life as husband and wife.

Alaska Bound Summer 2017

Monday, June 12, 2017

Eye “I”

Departing from the Fenton area, fifth wheel in tow.  We traveled through 3 states beginning in “I”, Indiana, Illinois and Iowa.

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Sooner or Later

We finished Iowa, up to Minnesota and in to South Dakota. The ride across Highway 90 was long and arduous. The vastness of nothingness made the open skies seem expansive. We could see storms way in front of us as we eventually passed through them.

At 8:30 p.m. (mountain time – Lisa not adjusting to time change very well this trip – Chip loving the extra time to drive more) we arrived at Rushmore Shadows Resort. This was a Resort of Distinction (part of our membership to

Waldenwoods). It was a very nice resort and centrally located between natural and man made wonders. We decided to extend our stay in that area to experience sites neither Chip or Lisa had seen in our 55 years of existence.  Our initial intent was to visit the infamous George, Tom, Teddy, and Abe - a.k.a. Mt. Rushmore.

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

We did not visit Mt. Rushmore initially, Wednesday was spent driving through the Bad Lands and visiting the town of Wall. While there we visited Wall Drug and sought out their famous 5₡ coffee.  

The Flat Flood Plains were carved with wind and water creating the spectacular Jagged Badlands. Erosion is constant and in another 500,000 years the Badlands as we viewed it will be non-existent.  As we crossed the gate-less cattle barrier into the National Park, off in the distance, we saw free-roaming Bison. This area is also inhabited by Thousands of Prairie Dog Colonies. Midway through our visit we walked atop the high grassy plains.  Watch your step, as we decorate our homes with the Prickly Pear Cactus this area was littered with them.

 

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Just call me Crazy

We drove through the Black Hills to get to Jewel Cave. The caves in this area seem to be a hot spot.  Tours are limited to 30 people.  If you do not get there before noon you more than likely will not get in that day.  While we waited for our 2:00 p.m. tour we traveled back to the town of Custer for lunch and (for anybody that knows us) our first local craft beer.  Jewel Cavern is the third largest cave in the world. We spent 1 ½ hours walking/climbing descending to a level of 700 feet below ground. The temperature was a constant 49°.

On our trip, back to the campground we made a stop to see the self-funded (paid for by tourism) monument to Native Americans. Crazy Horse is still being developed and is said to be a work in progress for the next 100 years.  Before leaving the Crazy Horse Monument we had the privilege to watch and learn about the Lakota Sioux ceremonial hoop dance performed by two of its members.

A model of what they want the final monument to look like

 

Friday, June 16, 2017

Thanks to Teddy

Today was the day to go visit Mt. Rushmore. Unfortunately, this and Jewel Cave do not allow dogs so Bentlee (Ms. B) had to stay and man the camp.  As with all the pictures we will display, our photos do not do the beauty justice. The closer you inspect anything (man/god’s creation) the more spectacular they are. Thanks to Theodore Roosevelt we as a nation can enjoy some of these wonders.  Knowing how frugal we are, we “GATHERED” firewood. We were able to enjoy a nice campfire while visiting with our camping neighbors.

Saturday, June 17, 2017 was spent preparing for the next day’s departure. Laundry, shopping, planning.

Sunday, June 18, 2017

Closer Encounter of a Personal Kind

We departed for Devils Tower and what lies beyond. Out of the flat South Dakota Prairie and into the Wyoming and Montana Hills and Prairies.  Devils Tower has been an important landmark for the Plains Indian Tribe not to mention our nation’s first national monument (1906). As large as it looms the top is only 1.5 acres.  The green color is because of lichens which is a combination of symbiotic plant and fungus community.  Molten magma when cooled underground contracted and forced sedimentary rock formations into the vertical columns.  The Tower rises 876 feet from its base.  The Northern Plains Native Americans still regard Devils Tower as a sacred site to this day. On our hike around the Tower this was evident by seeing the variation of colored cloth tied around trees allowing them to fly in the wind carrying the spirits to the sky.  This monument is truly a natural phenomenon.

Now to adding some serious miles beneath our rubber.  We continued through Wyoming and in to Montana.  Seeking one of the many ports to cross in to Canada we chose to travel diagonally and enter through the Sweetgrass port.  Only after contributing our fair share at Walmart and dry camp for the evening.

Monday, June 19, 2017

Montana also known as “The Little Rockies”

Home to Fields, Cattle, Cowboys and pronghorn antelope, mule and white tail deer.

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

British Columbia - “Free at Last”

Like South Dakota, the vastness of nothingness in British Columbia has large farms and open sky.  The Cloud formations are awe inspiring.  Here we see more trees and mountains.  The wildlife has changed and we now see Moose, Stone Sheep, Free Range Bison and Bear.  One of our breaks allowed us to take a little walk up Boulder Canyon in the Northern Rocky Region.  We let Bentlee off lead (free at last) and she had a blast.  She even found water to romp in.

Thursday and Friday, June 22-23, 2017

Out of BC and into the wh“Y”

The further West we travel the prettier it gets.  The Yukon holds much of the same wildlife but the landscape is more Mountainous. The Yukon has many “REST” stops along the Alaskan Highway but none of which allow overnight camping or parking – wh”Y”? A photo taken at 1:30 a.m. will show both how light it remained (nearing summer solstice) and that people, including us, do not pay attention to those signs.  After all, if you have driven 12 to 14 hours in a day and need to rest, isn’t that what a rest stop is for?

 

(This one is for you Lauren)

Saturday, June 24, 2017

Illegal Alien

Up and at it bright and early.  Driving through the mountains and nearing the border of Alaska we were witnesses of a double (full) rainbow (words cannot express)…

Of course, we HAD to stop at the border and take our pictures. Especially since this was Bentlee’s first time. Did we mention what a good traveler she has been.

While we awaited our turn at the Port of Entry we were amused by the Raven that wanted to either car jack or just cross the line with us.  And on that note…

Cont. Saturday, June 24, 2017

… Made it through the Cellular DEAD ZONE and into Tok, Alaska, a favorite town of Megyn and Kristyn. Fueled the truck, checked our email and text messages and made a few phone calls before heading south on the Tok Cutoff for Gulkana and another 100+ miles of cellular silence. It was good to arrive in Gulkana and Lisa, Bentlee and I got to share my first solo campsite from May 2013. It was once a bridge construction staging area for the Gulkana River Bridge but the state had converted it to FREE dry camping site. Salmon fisherman and travelers alike make use of the public portage and camp. Eagles fly overhead and salmon runs in the river and it costs nothing.

Sunday, June 25, 2017

Goodbye Gulkana, Hello Palmer? Why trade the remoteness of Gulkana for the town of Palmer? As is the case for most of Alaska, once you leave town, you are in the wilderness. First stop before Palmer was The Hub in Glennallen. We didn’t need fuel and that’s a good thing because The Hub is the busiest fuel stop I’ve experienced in Alaska. Full of RVs and Dip Net fisherman, the average wait to fuel is 30 minutes waiting in line. The location also has an Espresso depot, Thai Food depot and Visitor’s Center. We visited all three and you waited for your Pad Tai as well as your Americano.

The Mountain View RV Park was in a rural location and had a mountainous backdrop for a view. The rates were fair and it was attractive to Class A, fifth wheel RVers and travel caravans from the lower 48. This attracts mostly retired folk and not the good-time/drunk-time/noisy type campers. We made brief friendships with couples from Arkansas, Florida and Breckenridge, Michigan. Shared stories of our travels and sites to be enjoyed and offered advice and a helping hand when needed.

It is said that mountains create their own clouds.  This shot definitely indicates that.

Monday, June 26, 2017

Necessary Maintenance

Settled in enough to drop the truck off at the Wasilla Chevrolet dealer for the “check engine” light and a fuel filter change. We were the second diesel truck for their one diesel mechanic so we took a Chevrolet Trax for a loaner and headed into Anchorage to shop for a solar panel that would tend our RV batteries.

This picture was taken at 10:45 p.m. (sunset) June 25th.  It really does not get DARK right now.

Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Glowing

The truck was ready for pickup around noon and the result was 3 glow plugs replaced and fuel filter changed. Warranty covered the glow plugs and the rental so we celebrated and headed to Sportsman’s Warehouse for Lisa’s hiking boots.

Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Left Mountain View RV park for Willow Creek State Recreation Area (SRA). Arrived at the almost empty park and had our pick of the SRA. This would be a 3-day Dry Camp and we could test the new solar panel. The SRA bordered the Susitna River and the King/Chinook Salmon were running. However, the King Salmon are in sparse numbers and the season is closed. Bentlee enjoyed the frequent walks as we enjoyed the bald eagles, ravens and salmon.  Late evening a bicycle ride led us to an area we had visited 4 years ago.  There was evidence that fire had gone through since we were there last.  We learned that there are 250 fires burning (150,000 acres) in Alaska currently.

Fire has made its appearance in this
State Recreation Area since 2013

Thursday, June 29, 2017

Washing the 13-foot tall RV is not an easy chore when you have a ladder and power washer. Accomplishing it in a Dry Camp is a bit more of an undertaking. The water had to be pumped by hand from the well head 50 yards from camp. Trip after trip, 8 gallons at a time, we washed, rinsed section by section for the next 7 hours. Chip did the washing and Lisa completed the trim work, seals and windows.

Friday, June 30, 2017

Another lazy morning as we watched our vacant campground grow with campers as the weekend approached. We continued with some camp chores and Lisa set off to do laundry around 2:00 PM. After a 3-hour absence, I called her to see what her status was. No Answer…after two more attempts, I could hear her phone in the RV. At 7:30 PM, Lisa returned with the laundry, and groceries from Wasilla (a 60-mile round trip).

Saturday, July 01, 2017

Soul Food

It is much more relaxed packing up and moving sites when you are unhurried and today’s move was just that. It was the sunniest morning since being at the Willow Creek SRA and our solar panel was kicking butt. After 3 days of Dry Camp (No Water, No Electricity and No Sewer Dump) we sought a campground with Full Hook-up, that offers those services. Dry Camping is Free - $20 and Full Hook-up runs from $30 - $50, dependent on the camping location and site demand. We chose a $30 site off Willow Creek on the Parks Highway, Pioneer Lodge. The river rock strewn drive was bumpy and the site was overgrown with willow but we carved our place amongst 5 other campers. Our set-up was as slow and deliberate as our pack and move. Electric hook-up, water hook-up and waste dumped after we leveled followed by bumping out the slides and returning everything we had strapped down, to livable status. After, we ate lunch and packed our day-pack for a hike in Hatcher’s Pass (3886 feet).

Hatcher’s Pass/Fishhook Road runs due east from Willow to the Pass then “hooks” south to Palmer. As with most remote roads, the road surface near civilization is usually paved then it turns to gravel the further from town you get. In the case of Fishhook’s 49 miles, there are 10 miles of asphalt from Willow and 17 miles from Palmer. We had the privilege of driving 20 miles of reasonable gravel to Summit Lake (head water of Willow Creek) where we’d hike the April Bowl. Our late departure (4:00 PM) wasn’t an issue as we’d have light past midnight, but as we drove east, we left the sunshine and headed into the clouds and drizzle. Temperatures dropped from a sunny and dry 72 to wet, windy 42. NOTE TO SELF: Revise items in the DAYPACK for Hikes.

Fishhook Road follows Willow Creek for the most part and the remote sections are home to Gold Mining Claims and areas for ORV Trails and remote Camping. The miner’s claims are well marked and the trail riders are a serious bunch of hard-core Alaskans. Their mini encampments were anywhere you could park your trailers and campers then erect a tent and canopy. Through the falling rain and cold, they were outside tending to chores, fires, cooking, etc. and not inside the warmth of their RV.

The April Bowl Trail puts you a couple hundred feet above the pass and its hiker’s choice if they take the winding slow, meandering trail or set out on their own. Ms. Bentlee preferred to blaze her own trail and sniff every ground squirrel hole she passed. As the grade increased, Ms. B was still on her lead until we cleared most of the hikers. Once she was freed, her nose took her everywhere as she sniffed and chased after ptarmigan. We had walked up to cloud level and were soon enveloped in them. Ms. B was over a ridge and not returning to our calls and whistles. A minute later, there she trotted and was therefore relegated back to her lead. The whole time there was a steady wind and light rain. The mountain side was covered with slippery shale and rock, and whomever was holding Bentlee, had to risk being pulled down the mountain as she chased after rolling stones. Nonetheless, we summited the mountain and experienced the occasional break in the clouds for a few Kodak moments. An hour later, we had descended the mountain and climbed into the truck, wet and cold from our climb. It wasn’t a “picture perfect” day but it was a wonderful day for the soul.

We continued to climb to the summit despite the rainy weather

An old mine shaft entrance (mid picture)

Sunday, July 02, 2017

Decompression Day –  It would be our last day on the “Dry River Bed” and it started with RAIN. To respond to the constant harassment regarding our Blog, we decided it would be a good day for its creation and posting. A word of caution to those seeking Free WIFI when camping…it is rarely what you get at home on your personal WIFI. Especially in remote or high traffic campgrounds. Writing was completed and picture selection nearing completion. Tomorrow it should be ready…

Monday, July 03, 2017

Lisa took her turn at the wheel and I rode shotgun north on the Parks Highway. A cloudy day is a good day to put miles behind you and we did just that, right past Denali Park and Fairbanks, enroute to Manley Hot Springs and the Arctic Circle. We made it as far as Mile 27 on the Elliott Highway to a “Double Ended Paved Turnout,” just as the Milepost had published. In the morning, we would inch closer to the Dalton Highway and make day trips from our new camp.

Tuesday, July 04, 2017

We located an abandoned gravel pit just outside of Livengood, that made a nice camping spot. The Elliott Highway is a 140-mile roadway that is 50/50 paved/gravel. As you guessed, we pulled the Cyclone to the end of the paved portion and today we drove the gravel end to Manley Hot Springs (hot springs were contained in three cement tubs in one of the resident’s back yard and required a reservation). The scenery was beautiful but the road was crap. About 2 and half hours for the 70 miles (30 MPH average). The town of Manley had grown for the day from 130 to over 200+ for the July 4^th festivities. A pike fishing contest, boat races and town picnic brought in neighbors and a few tourists but by 5 PM, everything was back to normal. Bentlee enjoyed playing in the Tanana River and we got some up-close looks at the salmon fish wheels. Dinner was a burger and beer at the Manley Roadhouse where we met a lady whom had moved to Manley from Brighton, Michigan three years before (“It’s a small world after all”). Now, get that song outta your head…

For anyone who’s watched Yukon Men on the Discovery Channel, The Tofty Road project starts in Manley and will eventually reach the town of Tanana on the Yukon River to the west. All in all, the drive was hard but it was pleasurable to see how people live at the “End of the Road,” or in this case, almost the end.

One of the boats they raced on the river running through Manley

Wednesday, July 05, 2017

Double and Triple Time

Slowly finding out that we didn’t pack everything we could use on this leg of our journey. Add sleeping bags, tent and kayaks to the list. We’ve got place settings and bedding for 8 people though. So, our trip up the Dalton Highway (Haul Road) had to be a Day Trip and not an over nighter. The 135.7 miles one way on gravel and the occasional paved section put us to Gobblers Knob, about 25 miles north of the Arctic Circle. In this area of the north, gravel is more flexible and forgiving to the frost heaves and the pavement had the worst sections. Lisa needs to see the Brooks Range, experience the Atigan Pass and walk the tundra where the Barren Ground caribou call home.

As we paralleled and crossed over the infamous Alaskan pipeline, crossing the Yukon River; hiked to Finger Mountain (Tor); crossed the Arctic Circle and panned for gold in Prospect Creek. Had lunch at the Hotspot Café (Mile 60.3) north of the Yukon River and the half pound burger has been the best bargain meal yet at $12.50.

Finger Mountain - History states that Pilots would know
which way to travel because it points toward Fairbanks

We can remember when the pipeline news was making history back in the 70's.
To see it in real life is aw-inspiring.

Alaska Pipeline coming off of the bridge at the Yukon River crossing.

Thursday, July 06, 2017

South to the North Pole

Headed south on the Elliott at “Retiree’s Pace” and arrived at River View RV Park on Chena River in North Pole around 2:00 PM. They pack a lot of RVers in a small space. Not to mention having to share the FREE WIFI that was so SLOW. Temps were in the 80s too so we even got to use the air conditioner and fan.

Friday, July 07, 2017

Foxy

The Full Hook-up life in the RV Park does spoil you. No monitoring of electrical use or water or using flushing toilets. It gave us time to catch up on the news via internet and TV. Lisa did laundry while I carved a miniature dugout canoe. We both did a GOOD job so I suggested we go to the Silver Gulch Brewery in Fox for dinner and a beer. Everything was great and we’ll stop in again when we pass by.

Saturday, July 08, 2017

Solar Power

Made our way out of North Pole and headed east on the Chena Hot Springs Road for the Rosehips SRA (State Recreation Area) and a 3-day dry camp. Found only one site that could accommodate the Cyclone as most were too short and shaded. Site 6 had the southern exposure and was due north of a day use parking area that allowed sunshine to hit the solar panel for 12 hours of the day. Not too shabby. We had several walks, around the park, nature trail and along the Chena River. We had to give Ms. B our full attention because tomorrow was only for humans.

Sunday, July 09, 2017

Naturally Hot

Drove into Chena Hot Springs for the day after an early lunch. Chena Hot Springs is a resort that offers lodging, hiking, horseback riding, tours, but most of all, HOT SPRINGS! It was a sunny 75 and we wanted to soak in hot springs? Yes, but after we toured the Ice Museum which was only 29 degrees. The Ice Museum was filled with ice sculptures of all sorts and you can even spend the night in one of the 4 rooms for $600. Call it magic or call it science, but the ice museum is cooled utilizing the hot springs. In fact, the Resort’s electricity, heating and cooling is provide using the 165-degree water. Two turbines use the water (and a bit of refrigerant additive) to create 550 Kilowatts. The greenhouse and chicken coop are also heated using the expansive network of insulated water pipe.

Ice Museum - Outside

Ice Museum - Inside

Pillars separating sections of the Bar inside the Ice Museum

Our trip home from the Chena visit we noticed a bunch of people standing out at the road in one of the turnouts.  Looking to the north we spotted the attraction, a moose.  We turned around and joined the rest of the crowd. No matter how many (or not) you see, it is mesmerizing. We took an additional half hour returning to camp because

we just sat and watch the ole gal submerge her head under the water gathering and eating her dinner.  Further down the road we spotted a juvenile moose off in the distance in another body of water (slough).

Monday, July 10, 2017

Rainy Day spent on the Blogging on the computer.  We can’t update our post for the next few days due to limited WIFI and data access.  On Tuesday, July 11, 2017 we will be migrating south through Delta Junction, Paxon and eventually back to Gulkana/Glennallen before heading west on the Glenn Highway for a couple of stops and day hikes.

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Began making our way South on the Richardson.  Stopped in Fairbanks for a few groceries. Not much description on travels other than you can be in a city and 10 minutes later views with mountains, braided rivers and wildlife are amidst you.

Rainbow Mountain - Richardson Highway

Braided Tanana River

Pipeline popping out of the ground (and Bentlee)

Home Sweet Home

Wednesday, July 12-13, 2017

Continuing to venture South we made a detour to head West on the Denali Highway.  From the east, the first 21 miles of the highway and the last 3 miles out of 134 miles are paved.  The rest of the highway is gravel.  On this trip, we only drove on 1 mile of gravel on the Denali Highway to get to the Tangle Lakes BLM Campground.  The next couple of days were a bit hazy and it made for surreal surroundings.

July 14-15, 2017

South then West to Lake Louise. We officially made one big loop around the interior of Alaska. Starting at the Tok cut off when we arrived and passing it on our way back through today.  Making our turn North on the Lake Louise Junction, a few miles in, we realized that this paved road was by far the worst we had been on since being in Alaska.  You hear the horror stories of the dips and bumps you can experience while RVing the Alaska Highway but those road conditions pale the 20 miles of the Junction of Lake Louise.  Our view from camp was beautiful however our camp neighbors were pure “trailer park”. Two thirty something couples, with five children between them, and the parents lacked all civil parenting skills.  Kids were being kids and the parents had an “F-n” problem with it. “What are you F-n doing? Didn’t I F-n tell you…We found more enjoyment away from camp, bicycle riding and fishing. 

We briefly entertained the idea of living off the grid.  A local invited us back to his cabin because his neighbor’s house is for sale.  Ken’s place had solar panels, generator, fuel oil stove, wood burning stoves, two cisterns collecting rain water and two waste water tanks on a trailer. Five snowmobiles and a four-wheeler providing year-round access of the beautiful Lake Louise area.

The road resembles the ribbon that you see
at a gymnastics competition

July 16-17, 2017

Back in to Palmer for another couple day stay at Mountain View RV Park.  We made a 4-mile round trip 2,202 foot climb up the Matanuska Peak Trail on Monday and had an appointment to have the large awning arms replaced on Tuesday.  Seems you can’t leave a 16’-0” awning out all day (and leave for a day trip).  There must have been a fierce wind storm go through and the awning was laying on top of the RV roof.  Let’s chalk it up as an expensive learning experience.

Overlooking the Knik Tributary - Mid Trip

July 18-20, 2017

Continuing South through Anchorage and down to Girdwood on the Alyeska Highway. A quaint small town (pop. 2,710).  Girdwood is known as a resort destination thanks to its appeal in both summer and winter (we would have to agree).  There seems to be a concentration of a few more beautiful homes in this area.  While visiting, we tried our hand at gold panning, took a few nice walks, and climbed another mountain. Mt Alyeska is a ski resort that offers a tram ride to and from its gorgeous hotel (for a fee).  However, if you choose to climb 2,300 feet the tram ride down is free.

Night one we had a yearling black bear cub walk through the parking lot where we were camped. Day two we spotted three moose on our climb and day three we say a mamma black bear and her three cubs not far from where we had just crossed.

We will return to Girdwood.  The scenery and options this town has to offer definitely warrants a return trip.

July 21-22, 2017

Now on to Hope (pop. 151), a town popular with hikers, campers, bicyclists, bird watchers and recreational gold miners.  The scenery to get to this tiny town is breath taking as you wind around Turnagain Arm at the base and look up at the Chugach Mountain range.

On Saturday, we decided to take a hike along Gull Rock Trail. This 5.7-mile (one way) trail is rated easy and relatively flat with lush vegetation.  The last two miles requires you navigate devils club, cow parsnips and lots of bear scat.  This was our third big hike of the week.  Not that we must complete the hike/climb, but it seems the trails narrative become our challenge to complete the trip.  Our dogs, and the dog were exhausted by the end of this hike.

Stopped 1/2 way for lunch
 tide was out

Trip back to camp tide was coming back in (same spot)

Video of the tide rushing in

Bentlee kept pouncing along the trail.
She finally redeemed why.
Her big kill of the day was a shrew.

Sunday – Wednesday, July 23-26, 2017

Our next stop is Portage.  We stayed one night at a campground with water and electric and a dump station.  This allowed us a chance to recharge, refill and empty our grey and black tanks (something we have to do after four or five days of “dry camping”.  We did a lot of hiking and biking in this area and even tried our hand at fishing for rainbow trout and grayling in the borrow ponds.  One of our mid-day hikes allowed us to eat lunch in the snow as it said that this area gets approximately 12 feet of snow in the winter and there was still snow in the bottom of one of the valleys.

Beautiful (mostly flat) Trails

Waterfalls Out of Everywhere

Snow in July

These Trees Reminded Me of  the Movie Avatar (so cool)

Up until the year 2000 the town of Whittier was only accessible by train or boat.  This very small but quaint town is located at the head of Passage Canal on Prince William Sound.  We drove through the 2.5-mile-long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel through the Maynard Mountain.  The weather on one side of this 1-lane tunnel is typically different on the other end.  We went in to Whittier for a great seafood dinner Tuesday evening and could see the mountain on the Portage side but as we exited the tunnel we drove in to drizzle and fog.  Evidently the mountains surround the area and have glacial ice on them.  We could not see them that evening.  Princess Cruises and Norwegian Cruiseline are popular stops in Whittier where they then board the Alaska Railroad passenger service and can tour Alaska.  The popular trip is up to Denali National Park.

Back in Portage we visited the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center at Portage Lake.  One thing Alaska is big on is protecting historical heritage.  Each of the visitor centers we visit are evidence of this.  Not only with the content in the centers but the building that houses the information and items.  The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center was a unique building and was named after two congressmen who died in a plane crash in 1972.

Location of the center, I am sure, was selected in the early 1990s in order to see the Portage Glacier but now you have to take a glacier cruise in order view it as it has retreated dramatically around the corner of 

Byron Peak Mountain in recent years.

Waiting For Our Turn After the Train

Inside the Tunnel

Whittier Harbor with a Princess Cruise Ship In the    
Background

Begich, Boggs Visitor Center at Portage Lake

Thursday – Friday, July 27-28, 2017
Back to what seems kind of like home, Mountain View RV Campground.  Again, after dry camping we needed to recharge, refill and empty our grey and black tanks.  We also needed to clean, organize and move a few things to a storage unit we rented for a month to make room for family that is flying in for vacation.

First Sunset We Have Witnessed In A Long Time

Saturday, July 29, 2017

We returned to Girdwood (30 minutes south of Anchorage) and in the direction, we are heading on our first trek after we pick Careen and Harry up from the airport.









Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, July 30-31 and August 01, 2017

South to Seward.  Our first stop, along the route at a pull off, has a trail to walk down to a spot where we could watch a group of sockeye salmon spawning.  Next stop we set up camp.  We then toured the town of Seward located on Resurrection Bay.  Seward is known as the “Gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park” and was known as an important transportation hub for Alaska’s mining, exploration, fishing and trapping industries.  Seward was named for William H. Seward, U.S. Secretary of State under president Andrew Johnson.  Seward was wounded the same night Lincoln was assassinated, by a co-conspirator, Lewis Powell.  Seward was instrumental in arranging the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867.  A couple of other interesting facts are that Seward (Resurrection Bay) is a year-round ice-free harbor. Did you know Alaska is only 50 miles from Russia?

Enough about the history of Seward and on to our trip.  We visited the Seward Ale House for dinner and a beer and back to camp for an early night because Chip and Harry had to be down to the harbor for an early departure for Halibut fishing.  Harry caught two Halibut and released his small one. Chip and Harry each caught a couple Rock Fish (Chip did not fish much, his tummy can’t handle the four feet rolling seas).  The particular charter they were on processed the fish out at sea (disappointing to Careen and I as we wanted to see their catch hanging on the pole back at the harbor). Fish went into the freezer so we could prepare a nice Halibut Enchilada when the rest of the family arrives.

Sockeye Salmon Spawning

The Flies Were a Tad Bit Annoying
(sorry Harry - had to do it)

The Big Catch We Didn't Get to See

Harvesting Salmon Eggs and Milt from the Males

The following day weather was not the greatest but we did not let that stop us from taking our first hike.  We walked the Bear Lake Trail after stopping at the Bear Creek Weir.  Mid trip we ran in to 5 workers from the Trail Lake Fish Hatchery (Moose Pass) who were harvesting eggs and milt from the spawning Red Salmon at the lake.  This was an interesting and enlightening experience to witness for those who had not seen it before. The Hatchery employees were more than willing to answer all our questions.

Posing Before the Dinner Cruise

All four of us went on a dinner cruise out to Fox Island for an all you can eat prime rib and salmon (King Crab for an additional fee) dinner.  Back in 2013 Mom treated us to this trip and I remember we toured the ocean prior to eating.  We got to see Stellar Sea Lions, Sea Otters, Puffins and Eider Ducks among other sea birds.  This trip we ate first then rounded the island for the tour of sea animals.  That was not a good thing as a few passengers on the boat (Careen and I included) were unable to enjoy the wildlife because the seas were a bit rough and were fighting to keep dinner down. 

All of the Adorable Puffins (and Gulls)

The weather was kind of crumby as well and the clouds hindered the sight of the beautiful glacial filled mountains of the area.  The thing about Alaska though, is even if the weather is bad the beauty (cloud covered or not) far exceeds sitting inside.

Sea Lions Trying to Stay Warm

Wednesday – Thursday, August 02-03, 2017
Tunnel Vision

Off to Portage and Whittier.  We felt re-visiting the area and sharing our experiences with Careen and Harry were warranted.  The weather was rainy and cloudy again/still but we hiked upon arrival. The next misty morning we walked to Byron Glacier Trail-head.  The trail ended quite a way from the glacier.  Knowing that touching a glacier was an item on Harry’s bucket list we all decided to hike/climb the rocks/boulders (glacial moraine), crossing streams (melting snow and glacial ice) until we could actually walk on the glacier.

Glacial Snow/Ice With Glacial Water Running Underneath
A Sight to See

Careen, Harry, Chip and Lisa
 Hiking Up to Byron Glacier

We Had to Stone Hop On Our Trip Back

We then traveled to Whittier for a tour of town, watching wall to wall pink salmon naturally spawning up the streams, and dinner at one of my favorite spots again.  To travel to Whittier, you must wait in a staging area to go through the 1-lane, 2.5-mile tunnel.  We have a funny story to tell about what happened while waiting.  Anyone interested in hearing about it can call us.

You Have to Zoom In to Really See
How Wall to Wall They Really Are

    The Additional Climb Above the Restaurant/Tram Center

Friday, August 04, 2017

Friday morning, we packed up and drove the 15 miles to Girdwood. Dropped the RV and headed to the Alyeska Hotel parking lot for the strenuous hike up Mt Alyeska.  Lunch and a Beer were our goal before hopping on the Aerial Tram to take us back to the bottom of the mountain.  The climb took us approximately 2 hours, 3 mile, 2,200 ft. climb.  That was also the first sighting of a Moose, but not until we got to the top.  It was a clear, warm day and the cow and her calf were laying on one of the few remaining areas of snow trying to stay cool.  Check, item number 2 on Harry’s bucket list.  

Moose Laying in the Snow

Yes, It Is As Pretty As It Looks

Bicyclists Ride the Ski Lift to the Top
and Ride Down the Mountains

We ended up spending the night in Girdwood and yes, took a walk, to look for bear and visit the Girdwood Brewery.  No Bear, but we did enjoy the Beer.

Saturday, August 05, 2017

We traveled back home (Mountain View RV Campground) unloaded the RV and drove up to Hatcher Pass via Palmer-Fishhook Road (beautiful drive).  It was a beautiful sunny and warm day.  There were a lot of people out near the summit (the most I have seen there).  We will let the pictures tell the rest of the story.

This is the evening the rest of the group (Kristyn, Lauren and Brad) fly in – back to the RV in anticipation of their arrival.

The Pass Looking North

There were a lot of Para-gliders Out On This Beautiful Day

Sunday, August 06, 2017
Burning the Rubber

Today we began the 7-day Alaskan Blitz.  Before leaving Michigan, we sat down and developed an itinerary.  In review and reflection, I started to question our goals – as everyone had at least one thing or place they wanted to do or visit.  Sunday, we started out in Talkeetna.  Stop one included the Denali Brewing Company Tasting Room.  After leaving there Kristyn and Lauren said something about a mountain off in the distance but we continued down the road to Talkeetna.  Only to turn around and re-visit a turn off that highlighted the one and only Mt Denali and yes, we could see the top and clearly.  Only 30% of the 
general visiting population ever get to see the top.  It is otherwise covered by clouds (clouds that it generates all on its own).  After our perfect photo opportunity, we continued to town.  Talkeetna is a unique blend of old-time Alaska small town and a modern tourist destination.  It is also known to be the supply base for Denali climbing expeditions.  We walked around town visiting a few of the store fronts before departing town and making a quick stop at Kahiltna Birchworks – Birch Syrup production facility.  This was a place we visited a few years ago and I just had to have some more Birch Syrup.  It is quite different from the typical Maple Syrup us Michiganders know.  On to our next night stay in Cantwell.  This would be one of our two wet camp stops.

Mt Denali Through Binoculars on Cell Phone Camera

The 8 of Us NearTalkeetna

Monday, August 07, 2017

The “Big 6”

Considering the four-hour time difference, Kristyn, Lauren and Brad all seemed to adjust rapidly as we were up and ready to travel up to Denali National Park for our 6-hour bus trip into the park. Final destination was Toklat River.  Our bus driver introduced himself and told us his primary job was to drive the bus and get us to and from safely.  It was up to us to holler out a direction (in reference to a clock) when we spotted wildlife so everyone on the bus could reap the benefits.  This trip did not disappoint.  Evidently, we got to see the “Big 5” and then 1.  We witnessed Moose, Caribou, Grizzly Bear, Sheep, Grey Wolf, and a Gold Eagle.  On our way in we did get to see the top of Denali, hence the “Big 6”.  This excited the bus driver, evidently, he doesn’t get to see this often.

Stopped at Polychrome Pass In Denali National Park
and This Guy Came Walking Up Behind Our Bus

And Then He Headed Up The Hill Right Behind Us

One of the few Moose we saw

Polychrome Pass - Denali National Park

Once we were finished with the green bus ride in the park we turned left and headed north to Healy.  No surprise, a brewery was involved.  We ate dinner at the 49^th State Brewing Company.  It has an indoor/outdoor restaurant/bar and an outdoor beer garden where the bus from the movie, Into the Wild is on display.  The bus is an exact replica of the Fairbanks City Transit System Bus 142 that Christopher McCandless used as his wilderness home until his death.  The original bus is actually still out in the wild.  It was a good movie.  If you get a chance, watch it.  After dinner we departed Healy and headed back to camp in Cantwell as the next day was going to be a grueling drive across the Denali Highway.

Brad Sitting in Front Of the Magic Bus Used in the Movie

Tuesday, August 08, 2017

Holy Cow – The Dust

Time to hit the Highway (Denali that is), 134 Miles west to east. The West end is paved for 3 miles and East has 21 miles. The remaining is dirt, gravel, stone and conditions vary based on maintenance and personal opinion.  This is the second 40-foot RV we have pulled across the highway and I would speculate the last.  Although conditions this year were better than our trip in 2013 it wreaks havoc on the RV and the dust is horrendous.  We were able to check an item off of several bucket lists on this route as we stopped and got great pictures of a cow moose munching in a pond (similar to what Kristyn witnessed back in 2003).

Alaskan Mountain Range Backdrop and a Kettle Pond
In the Forefront.  One of the Many Beautiful 
Scenes along the Denali Highway

Blueberries were in abundance but not quite ready (a week or so would be great).  Paxson bound and 5 or 6 hours later, we were on the Richardson Highway (4) headed toward Glennallen.  We grabbed a quick dinner at a roadside stand that had NO French fries, charged the same amount and made no substitution exceptions…Some of us had already ordered and others were not happy.  We traveled a bit further south past Copper Center and dry camped at a pull off area at Willow Lake.  The view was by far one of the best views to fall asleep and wake up to.  Mount Drum (12,010 ft), Mount Sanford (16,237 ft) and Mount Wrangell (14,163 ft) in the Wrangell-St Elias National Park Preserve right out the big picture window.

A Picture Perfect Sunset

With a Different View

In a Matter of a Few Minutes

Wednesday, August 09, 2017

The Edge

Up and atom, a 3-hour 60-mile trip into McCarthy and Kennicott.  This would fulfill another item on several bucket lists.  The road to McCarthy must be traveled with caution as it may contain railroad spikes, sharp rocks and certainly railroad ties as well as humps, bumps and holes.  McCarthy and the mining area, Kennicott are on the television show Edge of Alaska featured on the Discovery Channel (a little birdie, “Neil Darish” told me that the 2017 season will start in October 2017 and they have signed on for an additional year in 2018).  Aside from that the two locations are just a very neat place to visit.  McCarthy retains many of its original structures and all its original flavor.  Nearby Kennicott offers solitude and scenery, including the massive moraine of Kennicott and Root glaciers.  At the end of the McCarthy Road there is no vehicle access.  Visitors must cross the Kennicott River footbridge and walk a short half-mile walk or take a shuttle in to McCarthy.  You can than take another shuttle up to Kennicott or walk the additional 4.5 miles (our group chose to take the shuttle).  We walked the street of Kennicott and stopped at the little bus/restaurant for lunch before visiting the historic buildings and taking our hike up to the Kennicott Glacier.  I am not sure if it was on anyone’s bucket list to be real close to a bear but some of us were.  We saw one little black bear meandering out on the edge of the moraine approximately 75 yards from the trail we were on.  A short while later some of us witnessed a Sow and her cub eating berries at the top of a hill approximately 30 yards from us.  That was a bit close for comfort.  Harry had his side arm at arm’s reach just in case.  This hike fulfilled a few peoples bucket list as we not only got to touch but we got to walk on and drink from this wondrous natural beauty.

Old 14 Story Mine Building

Glacial Ice Beneath the Gravel

Bear off in the Distance

Bear Just Up the Hill

Down the Moraine Toward the Glacier

Climbing Up the Glacier
on a Gorgeous Day

Brad, Lauren, Careen and Harry

Chip, Kristyn, Lisa and Bentlee

We had to pick up our pace after leaving the glacier in order to catch the shuttle back to McCarthy.  While visiting the general store and then the bar that is owned by Neil Darish we also saw Mark Wacht and Gary Green.  Evidently, I embarrassed my daughter when approaching Neil at lunch and asking for a picture with him.  He was friendly enough and had me sit in his new (historic) car that he purchased one-month prior back in Palmer.  I embarrassed her again while visiting Neil’s bar in McCarthy when I asked for a photo with Mark Wacht and then Gary Green walked up and I got a picture with him as well.  They were all down to earth and just living life with these strangers invading their humble small town.  By this time the shuttle service had stopped and we had to walk the half plus mile back to our vehicles and head back on the slow going 60-mile trip to the RV.

Neil Darish

Mark Wacht

Gary Green

Thursday-Saturday, August 10-12, 2017

Rain, Rain and More Rain

Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) is a 30% Urea Additive that is required for diesel engines since 2011. Urea is short for urine and you’re wrong if you assume you can pee in your fuel tank and call it good. If it were only that simple… Anyways, back to the DEF. The truck threw a code that there was BAD DEF and the truck would be limited in performance. First you are limited to 65 mph, then 55, then 45 and finally 4 mph, in about 300 miles. That could cause a problem but Valdez was about 100 miles away and we could get it fixed. So, onward to Valdez to catch some Pink Salmon and see some wildlife.

Blah, blah, blah, more gorgeous countryside. Glaciers, snow covered mountain peaks, glacial rivers with milky gray waters, crystal clear mountain streams and the Alaskan Pipeline led us to Valdez. Worthington Glacier required a short hike but GLOBAL WARMING prohibited us from reaching it due to the massive melt. “Damn the Industrial World!” Then we crossed over Thompson Pass before our decent into Valdez which also included a stop at the Bridal Veil Falls. The Thompson Pass is breathtaking and Careen picked it as a possible future residence location.  She would be the FIRST to try to live in such a location but I would agree with her that during the summer it would be a PERFECT home.

I will have to find the comparison picture
from 3 years ago but the
Worthington Glacier has retreated a lot.

We are in the clouds at Thompson Pass.
Construction and bad weather do not allow
the true beauty show through.  This area
is truly magnificent.

Bridal Veil Falls

Valdez could be the perfect location for an Alaskan home if you like a maritime climate. Clouds, rain and a breeze shouldn’t damper your attitude for the chance of sunshine tomorrow or the next day. When, if you are lucky, it does shine, mountains are the backdrop to the bay filled with Stellar Sea Lions, Sea Otters, Harbor Seals, Bald Eagles and salmon. Pink Salmon in July and Silvers in late August are all fed on by Black Bear and Brown Bear at their leisure. Catch as many as you like but keep only six of the best fish. Remember that everyone you keep, you must clean and prepare for a meal.

We settled in our favorite spot on Allison Pointe, between the hatchery and the Pipeline Terminal. It is a state campground that is considered dry camping but then again you are in Valdez and there is no such thing as DRY… Set-up was completed then a quick trip to grab fishing licenses for Brad and Lauren. Harry, Brad and I went back to the Hatchery area and caught/released Pink Salmon for an hour or so. We then looked over the Hatchery and the receding tidal flat. The boys were impressed with the salmon numbers and we returned home for the night.

On Friday, the rain/drizzle lingered throughout the day but that didn’t keep the guys from fishing. We caught several Pinks and released most of them. Later, the girls joined us and everyone got to catch a salmon. Brad and Lauren caught the 2 freshest fish so I filleted them for and we’ll bring them back to Michigan in the fall. Although the day was damp, everyone appeared to adjust their expectations and had a wonderful time catching salmon and watching sea lions and sea otters. We celebrated late into Saturday night (perhaps 10 p.m.) because Saturday was a travel day and our last night together.

Harry Threw This Little Guy Back

This One Will Make the Dinner Table

Kristyn's 1st Fish
(that she knows of)

Sunday-Saturday, August 13-19, 2017

Lisa and I would spend the next week in Mountain View preparing for our final few weeks in the Interior. Of course, this meant another trip to the dealership to check on the DEF problem, rotate the tires and an oil change. We also had to make a repair in the Jumbo Slide on the Cyclone.  On Wednesday night, we had dinner with Jon and Krista at the Palmer Alehouse.

Sunday-Thursday, August 20-24, 2017

Our second trip back to Willow SRA and this time we had the opportunity to fish for Silvers (Coho) Salmon on the Susitna River. I started fishing on Monday morning and caught a decent Silver with just a hint of blush/color. Lisa and I each caught one apiece that afternoon. The limit went from 2 fish to 4 fish Monday at five but the fish didn’t get the memo. We fished all day Tuesday, but came up empty. Wednesday was better as we each caught a Silver. Thursday, I caught and kept a Silver and released a Keta/Chum/Dog. We ate fresh salmon that week but processed most for smoking.

Everyone feels the pain and everyone experiences the pleasures. As one stands on the river bank for hours and hours you meet all kinds of sportsmen and sportswomen. You feel comfortable amongst your kind here. You find your place in the fishing experience hierarchy and you are accepted. Lines get tangled, fish are lost and fish are landed. Cheers, laughter and heavy sighs are heard up and down the river. Only the most obnoxious are shunned or openly criticized. A fish landed is applauded and a fish lost is mourned by ALL.

Friday-Saturday, August 25-26, 2017

Just a couple days of rest and recuperation at Mountain View before the caribou hunt in Chicken. We laundered clothes and resupplied at Fred Meyer. Lisa prepared Halibut Enchiladas and we dined with new friends, Bill and Carol from Colorado.

Sunday, August 27, 2017

“Goodbye” Mountain View RV Park and “Hello” Glenn and Richardson Highways…going northeast to Chicken to hunt the Forty Mile Caribou Herd that opens on Tuesday. We witnessed the Alaskan version of the “Color” Tour as we passed by yellow, red, rust and browning landscapes that were framed by glacier covered mountains. The roads were fine by Alaskan standards until the Tok Cutoff where frost heaves forced you to slow down. We made it to Tok in the early evening but pushed on to the Taylor Highway at Tetlin Junction and found a turnout for the night.

Monday, August 28, 2017

The Taylor Highway is NOT maintained in the winter so those who choose to stay in Chicken or Eagle must rely on their own via snow machines, planes, dog sleds, and stockpiled supplies. NO powerlines, natural gas, municipal water or waste services, cellular service or television broadcasts. What you bring in or buy from someone else who brought it in, is all that is available. Chicken is a gold mining community and derived its name from the Ptarmigan, a grouse-like bird, that were so plentiful that the miners called them “chickens.”

Alaska showed yet another of its many faces with rounded mountains, wide valleys and treeless peaks. You could see similar backdrops around the state but here these vistas were at a grander scale. I had butterflies in anticipation of the next day’s hunt as this looked like Caribou Country. The Forty Mile Herd is estimated at 40,000 animals inhabiting 40,000 square miles of mountains north east of Fairbanks, east to Eagle and into the Yukon Territory of Canada. One caribou per square mile sounds like poor odds compared to Michigan Whitetail Deer at 20-30 per square mile but timing is everything. This is the time of the year when herding occurs in preparation for the Rut/breeding season of October and you could see hundreds every day if you were in the right place at the right time. The Forty Mile HOTLINE (Biologists radio track about 50 Cow “female” Caribou) provides a weekly update to the herds primary location. Their summer range is inaccessible by road and can only be reached by plane or a boat. As fall approaches the migration takes the herd east over the Taylor Highway and into the Yukon or west to the Steese Highway, northeast of Fairbanks. Hunters along the road system take a majority of the 850 BULLS “male” ONLY Caribou quota. This year, the herd moved west toward the Steese, over 250 miles from where we would be hunting. Hunting for stragglers, those late to the party, would be our plan.

We set up camp in the Gold Panner RV Park then took a drive to scout the area north of Chicken. My last time hunting this area was with Jerry in 2003. We used ATVs to drive west of the roads to mountains that afforded us the best view of the valleys. Lisa and I would hike if we found a good spot or saw a bull near the road as we drove. No sign of caribou in our short drive but we did come across a public gold prospecting area.

Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Opening day for Zone 3 of GMU 20E (RC860) and we set out with packs, rifle, binoculars and our trusty hound, Bentlee. USUALLY, the area north of Chicken is filled with hunting camps at every turn-out and borrow pit for 50 miles but this year was different. Perhaps the 25 or so camps were optimistic there would be enough “resident” bulls and stragglers and wasn’t worthwhile to drive the Steese and contend with that hunter population from Fairbanks. Nonetheless, they drove their wheelers to the mountain tops and glassed for “bou.” We, slowly drove the road, stopped and glassed, then drove some more, over 50 miles north on the Taylor. On our way back, we side-tripped to Canada (9 miles) on the “Top of the World” Highway. More driving, more glassing and NO wildlife until I spotted a “black” spot amongst the blueberries. Binoculars at the ready confirmed a Black Bear and it didn’t take long to talk Lisa into making a stalk. Ms. B barked from the truck as we made our way toward the bear. We started from a higher elevation then the bear but it was late afternoon and thermals moved down hill, STRIKE ONE. I could feel the breeze at the back of my neck, STRIKE TWO. The walking was easy as they were “game” trails crisscrossing the hillside of black spruce, alder, willow, blueberry and cranberry bushes, but our elevation was below the alpine. Therefore, the growth was waist high and a bear could walk below that, STRIKE THREE. We walked a mile round-trip and picked a pint of wild blueberries. Not a total loss as we planned sourdough pancakes with blueberries as we approached the truck.

On our way back, we stopped and did some gold panning in the public area. Bentlee found a caribou leg bone and chewed on it until I took it away from her.  I found a caribou shed antler and gave it to her as a replacement then watched some hunters drive south with a grizzly bear in the bed of their truck.  After several pans and no gold, we continued toward home.  Then it happened in the hilliest section of roadway.  Lisa stopped the truck and there in the road was a lone set of caribou tracks (probably a bull) walking south.  This caribou came down off the steep hillside and walked down the road to find an easier path downhill on the other side.  A quick check of the sun’s location and we were good for another 3 hours of light.  This could get exciting.  After a hundred yards, the tracks disappeared but the gravel surface was hard-packed and a caribou might not leave any sign.  The willows were too tall and hill too steep on both sides to see very far, so we slowly moved on.  More tracks! Dang! A small and large set (probably cow and calf) and they were heading north.  We continued south and decided that the “bou” were too few and far between that we would head out the next day.  “How do you end a hunt after just one day?”  You do that by understanding the animal densities and travel patterns.

River Running Through Caribou Country
Off of the Taylor Highway

Beautiful Country Side Just North of the
Top Of The World Highway

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Doing my part of the shutdown, I discover the right front tire on the truck is low, 32 of 65 psi. Nearest tire repair is 75 miles away in Tok.  Filled the tire and headed to Tok, checking the pressure after an hour and a half and it lost 6 psi, not too bad.  Another hour before the repair but before leaving the Taylor, we catch up to a semi-tractor hauling a D-10 bulldozer.  That dozer is so heavy that a second semi would push the former uphill then pass it and pull in front to slow the decent downhill.  Made it into Tok, parked the Cyclone and headed to the Tesaro station for the repair.  Bad News…the tire hit a sharp rock and damaged too many plies.  On went the spare and the service guy scavenged a second tire for the new spare, total cost, $40.00.

Thursday, August 31, 2017

Off to the Tesaro to top off the diesel.  Free vehicle was with fill-up and we took advantage and washed the truck and the Cyclone.  Dang! Lisa found another flat tire (picked up a drywall screw somewhere) and this was on the Cyclone. An hour later the $24.00 repair was good to go but it was lunchtime and that meant Fast Eddy’s.  Everyone has or should eat at Fast Eddy’s in Tok, Alaska.  The prices are fair and they have great burgers and pizza.  It is always full of Alaskans, dining as they return to Fairbanks or Anchorage.  As we parked, we met hunters from the Taylor Highway and they too gave up after seeing ZERO.  Inside the restaurant were at least two other hunting parties with ZERO caribou.  At the most, they gave it 48 hours of hunting before pulling the plug.  I checked the HOTLINE later that week and confirmed that only 16 caribou were taken in Zone 3.

It happened somewhere near the Alaska-Canada Border when I turned to Lisa and asked how she was feeling. We were missing our summer home in the Interior already. Canada would feel different and Juneau has its own feel. The Interior holds a special place in our hearts as there is so much to do, see and experience.

The remainder of the day we drove for Haines Junction, Yukon and made it at 8:30 p.m. (9:30 p.m. local), a dry camp in a turn-out.

Friday-Tuesday, September 01-05, 2017
We met our RV hosts, Dan and Val at their home in Haines Junction. This would be our parking spot for the Cyclone while we visit Jerry and Lisa in Juneau for the month. After getting settled in we made reservations on the Alaska Marine Highway only to learn that there wasn’t room for our truck until Wednesday so we’ll get to Juneau on Wednesday night instead. We walked every day, cleaned and repaired the rig and truck and visited the Village Bakery.

Dan and Val Drummond's Place In Haines Junction - Yukon 

Wednesday, September 06, 2017

Juneau Bound.  We packed up the truck and headed South to Juneau.  There are only two ways to get there.  Either by plane or by Ferry.  Our Ferry did not leave the Harbor until 6:00 p.m. and would take 4.75 hours (poor Bentlee had to stay in the truck the whole time and we were not allowed to go down to see her).  Before boarding the Ferry, we had time to stop and visit Dan and Lori in Haines.  Chip caravanned up to the Brooks Range a few years ago to Caribou hunt with them.  After a long day we finally arrived at the Nankervis residence.  Jerry and Lisa both had things to do Thursday but graciously waited up for our arrival. 

Thursday, September 07, 2017

This day was spent organizing and grocery shopping to prepare for our voyage toward Pack Creek on Friday, destination Brown Bear Observation.

Friday – Sunday, September 08-10, 2017

Our mode of transportation was a 36’-0” Westport Gill Netting boat that Jerry uses in the summer to catch and sell Salmon commercially.  

Friday afternoon we traveled south down Gastineau Channel into Stephens Passage and pulled in to Taku Harbor where we tied up for the evening.  We departed the boat for a short hike up to one of the several cabins which also allowed the dogs some exercise, ate dinner and hit the hay.  Saturday morning, we departed Taku Harbor around 8:00 a.m. and continued down Stephens Passage and in to Seymour Canal.  We made it to our destination around 3:00 p.m.  It was high tide and Pack Creek was not visible.  At that point we turned around and headed back South and boated in to Windfall Harbor.  It was there that we dropped one crab pot and baited the fishing poles to do a little Halibut fishing.  No fish that evening, but the brown bear did not disappoint.  We saw at least 5 while fishing and after we anchored in the harbor that night we saw a few more.  Jerry and Chip bravely paddled in to shore (dogs in tow) just minutes after two of the Brown Bear were right in front of us.  That was a little nerve racking.

The Bear That Passed By in Front of the Boat
Shortly Before Chip and Jerry Took the Dogs
to Shore

Both nights on the boat were very calm, which made sleeping tolerable.  It was the mouse the first night and the narrow beds in the V-Birth that were “different”.  Sunday morning, we woke, ate a quick snack and headed over to pick up the crab pot.  Low and behold there were 5 Dungeness crabs (all keepers – they had to be 6 ½ “ across the top shell).  Brunch was a delicious fresh crab, egg, bacon burrito cooked to perfection by Lisa.

Bentlee Very Curious About
What is in the Crab Pot

The Crabs Have to Be Male and
Measure 6 1/2 inches 

Cleaning the Crab After Steaming Them

Back out In Seymour Canal for the almost 12-hour trip back to Juneau we sailed in 4-foot seas.  Needless to say, we lost Chip to the bunks (or he may have blown chunks), which was too bad because we saw at least 15 whales and some harbor seals.  Once we rounded the peninsula and headed North up Stephens Passage the seas really calmed down.  We saw more whale action and pulled slowly around Midway Island which is notorious for harbor seals.  It was an amazing sight, as there were almost 100 seals sunning themselves.  There must be a magic distance to their comfort and we crossed it as we approached them.  They all started jumping in the water.  The minute we turned around they all started climbing out again.  In that same vicinity, we also drove very slowly around a couple of icebergs that had broken off of the Taku Glacier (One of few glaciers that is still growing).  Chip and I tried our hand at Halibut fishing again (little bit deeper seas here) to no avail – darn, we like Halibut.  Back at it we still have a way to go.  Jerry put me in charge for a while.  We were motoring against the tide and only traveling approximately 7 to 8 knots.

Harbor Seals

As We Started to Pull Away They Started to Swim
Back to Shore

Birds Sun-bathing on the Iceberg

Iceberg From the Taku Glacier

Holding 10,000 Year Old Ice

We definitely got to see what we were going for and more.  It is all so amazing to witness and such a great trip with great companions.  If you zoom and look closely you will see one of the bears we saw that had a tapeworm hanging from it’s rear.  Evidently a lot of the bears have them (poor things). 

Bear with a Very Long Tapeworm Hanging

Monday, September 11, 2017

Jerry is an assembly man on the City Borough Assembly for Juneau.  As a representative of the assembly we joined him in attending a memorial celebration at the Rotary Park near his neighborhood.  We walked down with him to honor those that perished and those that sacrifice today. 

The monument in the park was designed by a couple that had a strong feeling that something needed to be created and signify the loss on September 11, 2001.  There were many features cited by the mother of one of the visionaries – here are just a few.  Construction of the monument is with concrete and marble from Pennsylvania, one of the sites targeted by the terrorists and represents the strength found in our heroes.  The broken shape is that of the Pentagon with each side measuring four feet in length, representing the four lost airplanes.  The two voids signify the absence of the twin towers.  The Forget Me Not flowers planted around, symbolize the rebirth of patriotism and our promise never to forget.  The head of the memorial pentagon is aligned with the North Star, a symbol of all Alaskans.  Most of us can remember vividly where we were when this terrible tragedy occurred.  It was a very nice tribute and a day/memory we hold in our hearts.

  

Tuesday, September 12, 2017

The hike up the West Glacier Trail.  The last time Lisa hiked this trail was in 1992, carrying Kristyn on her back.  We chose to take the Cairn route, could be quite treacherous.  Our goal was to get to the infamous ice caves below the Mendenhall Glacier.  The last time Jerry had been out there was two winters ago and even he was surprised at how drastically they had deteriorated.  The hike was on a fairly nice day.  When long wavelength light (i.e. red) from the sun hits the ice, it is absorbed, rather than reflected. The light transmitted or refracted through the ice returns as blue or blue-green. But for whatever reason the glaciers look dirtier when it is sunny out.  They actually look more blue when it is cloudy out.  We will let the pictures tell the rest of the story.

Inside the Deteriorating Ice Cave

Ice Cave in Lower Front Left Corner

Panorama of West Trail, Mendenhall Glacier and
Nugget Creek Waterfall 

For all of you Alaska (reality TV show) watchers, I not only got to meet and talk to three of the people from Edge of Alaska in August but I got to talk to Dustin Hurt from Gold Rush.  He and another worker were checking out the construction of a bridge at the end of the West Glacier Trail.  As he was walking away I looked and said to Chip “Was that Fred’s son?”  Chip seemed to think so, so I hollered out and asked him.  Sure enough, it was.  He is now working construction in Alaska (unfortunately, no picture with him).  After our hike, Jerry took us on a tour around town.  We got to see all the change being made.  In comparison to the lower 48 states, Juneau has a limited road system, but with the increase of population and people moving out of the City proper, they too have road construction with turn-abouts.  Jerry then, took us to the Lemon Creek area near where his storage unit is.  He introduced us to Jeff, the owner of Alaskan Brewery who had been walking outside his buildings.  We then headed done the road to another construction yard.  It was there that I got to meet Gene Cheeseman from the show Gold Rush (Discovery Channel).  He is a friend of Jerry’s whom he has played hockey with for years.  Very nice, down to earth Gent.

Lisa with Gene Cheeseman

We are spending a fair amount of time in Juneau therefore we will cover the highlights of our stay (not every day).

Thursday, September 14, 2017

We thought we would try our hand at fishing for the Silver (Coho) Salmon that were supposed to be swimming up the Gastineau Channel.  There were some fish going up sheep creek, but none worth eating.  We did, however catch many sculpins.  Sculpin, also called bullhead or sea scorpion, any of the numerous, usually small fish of the family Cottidae.  Sculpins are bottom-dwelling, inactive fish. Most are found in shallow sea waters, though some live in deeper waters. The sculpins are of little value to humans, as they are not generally considered tasty.  We did get to watch the eagles just hanging out ready to grab a fish for lunch.

September 15-24,2017

Juneau is in a temperate rainforest area.  On average it rains approximately 222 days a year.  During our visit this summer we have been lucky and have not seen a lot of rain.  It has been cloudy and overcast though.  When the sun shines it is spectacular but it is beautiful even if the sun isn’t shining.

Saturday, September 16, 2017
We visited the Alaska State Museum with Lisa.  They had completely demolished the old museum and re-built the new one in it's place.  Construction was in two phases and Lisa was in charge of the project.  The new museum is gorgeous.  Lisa toured the museum with us and shared her knowledge of Alaskan History and Culture.  She is so passionate and it is great to listen to her.  We then got to go behind the scenes to see and learn about the new construction of the new building and the process of how/why they preserve and archive the historical collections.

Alaska State Museum - Juneau

Terrazzo Floor with Axis Lines and Special Markings in the Atrium 

Native Canoes

Preservation Area

Eye Spy Art Piece In Children's Section of Museum

Monday, September 25, 2017

We took advantage of the nice weather and hiked up Mt Roberts, climbing 2.5 miles, 1800+ feet to tram level.  At that point, we meandered up a bit further to a couple of overlook platforms and enjoyed the sun and lack of wind where Jerry taught us a few more things about Juneau and Douglas Island.  It was not planned, but it ended up being a day of exactly 12 hours of daylight and night.

Only (3) Cruise Ships Today

Looking South - Gastineau Channel

These Stairs Actually Have a Street Name
as They Climb One Block to the Next

Upon our decent on the tram we dropped Jerry off at a meeting and then traveled to the hatchery.  The Macaulay facility is also the home of DIPAC's Ladd Macaulay Visitor Center which has accommodated hundreds of thousands of visitors since 1990, and has become a vital educational resource for the community of Juneau and the surrounding areas.  The hatchery is permitted for 50 million pink, 121 million chum, 1.5 million coho and 950,000 chinook.  The facility can hold up to 300 million eggs, and is one of the five largest salmon hatcheries in the State of Alaska.  It is always neat to see these huge fish climbing the fish ladder.  At this time of year it is the Silver (Coho) population returning to spawn.  We got the inside, in depth, scoop on how the hatchery processes returning fish because Elliot is employed at the facility.  He shows his passion for what he does by his excitement when explaining what they do at the hatchery.  It is always interesting to learn new things and how they contribute to hatchery cost recovery, commercial fishermen, and subsistence users.

Two Male Coho in the Viewing Tank at the Top of the Ladder

As we were leaving the hatchery we saw an eagle watching us from atop the local newspaper building.  The lighting was not the greatest but the backdrop of the cultural depiction and the fish crow next to it was a great comparison.

Eagle in Comparison to a Fish Crow

Tuesday, September 26, 2017

We tried our hand at fishing out on the boat again.  Jerry and Chip had packed away the commercial netting a few days earlier.  Jerry read the numbers were not good on commercial catches the last couple of weeks and decided he was done for the season.  He had heard people were catching a few around the end of Douglas Island so we tried our hand at trolling for some Silver Salmon.  Not even a bite, but the scenery and camaraderie made it worth the trip.

A House Boat in Harris Harbor
I Don't Think It Has Moved In Awhile

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

We took a little time and went in to the City with Jerry.  The goal was to do a bit of shopping.  Jerry took us into City Hall, where he spends a lot of time these days serving as Deputy Mayor and an Assembly Member.  We stopped in to see Mayor Ken Koelsch.  He and his wife are originally from Michigan.  He graduated from High School with Chip’s ex-stepfather from Standish/Sterling and his wife is from Ionia. Small world.

Juneau Borough Assembly Room

Juneau is All About Displaying Art and Historical Artifacts
by the Natives and Local Artists

Thursday, September 28, 2017

Took a hike out to Point Bridget Trail.  This trail can be found at the North end of Juneau approximately a half mile from the end of the road. Keep in mind you can only Ferry or Fly in to Juneau.  The main highway (Hwy 7) is 39.1 miles from South to North.  The trail was boggy, swampy and wet, (they call in muskeg) but beautiful to say the least.  The dogs had a ball and required a bath once we got home.

Chip and Jerry at the Beginning of the Hike

Foam Created by Vegetable Fatty
Acids as Water Flows Over
Plant Life In the Middle of the Woods.  
It is a Little Oily Feeling

End of the Road - North of Juneau

Beautiful Sunset in Tea Harbor 
North of Auke Bay Area - North of Juneau

Friday, September 29, 2017

The weekend weather was spectacular.  Jerry took me to the storage unit to pick up his motorcycle for a few days.  I immediately took a trip out to the visitor center near the Mendenhall Glacier.  Stopped back at the house for lunch, and then back out for a ride for the afternoon.  On that trip I traveled over to Douglas Island and went to yet another “end of the road”.  I headed north the 11 miles to the end and back.  Great open road kind of day, and got to see the glacier from afar.

Mendenhall Glacier from the North End of Douglas Island

Saturday, September 30, 2017

Time spent just relaxing with Jerry and Lisa or should I say preparing dinner for the celebratory dinner Jerry wanted to give Ed Mercer.  He has been a friend of Jerry’s for some time and was recently promoted to Chief of Police.  He is also the gentleman that Chip assisted halibut fishing with in 2015.  We also got to meet Hanna’s (Elliot’s wife) parents.  It was a very nice evening spent visiting and laughing.  A group of us played Speak Out as the others watched with sheer enjoyment at our laughter.

Chip, Elliot, Hanna and Jerry

Hanna and Elliot with Their Potato Yield

Sunday, October 01, 2017

No, say it isn’t so – it is October already.  We are nearing the end of our stay here in Juneau.  It is looking like the rest of this whole week it is supposed to rain.  Chip, Lisa and I decided to take advantage of the beautiful Fall day and went out to Mendenhall Glacier.  We needed to get our picture at photo rock, just as we had in 1992 and 2003.  I like to compare from years past the recession of the glacier.  It is quite drastic this time.  Matter of fact, back in 1992 the falls that we walked up to this year flowed down at the edge of the glacier and there was no trail to the falls.  The water that flows from above truly shows the power and beauty of nature.

Earlier this summer Jerry had caught a King Salmon and they were going to serve it the next day at a gathering.  He left it on ice in a cooler right outside of the garage access door, when they got up the next morning they discovered they had a visitor.  A bear helped itself to the Salmon.

It is routine, several times a day, to take the dogs out for a walk at the municipal park (baseball fields) across the from Jerry and Lisa’s.  Last week we were getting quite a bit of rain.  It is getting dark around 7:00 now and I decided I did not want to track through the mud and puddles like we had earlier in the day. I started down the street to get to the sidewalk when suddenly Bentlee began to bark.  I lifted my head to shed light ahead of us and saw a sow and her two cubs climb the evergreen in the neighbor’s yard.  They had dragged the other neighbor’s garbage down one house and were having a grand ole time picking through the trash.  We immediately turned, stopped and told the guys what had happened and walked in another direction.

City Park (Everyone Brings Their Dogs To Run Here)

Tree that the 3 Bears Climbed.  
We Were at the End Of That Drive

Two days after my sighting of the three bears, I was once again taking the dogs for their evening exercise and decided to cut across the park over to the road where there are street lights.  We walked a bit down the sidewalk when I heard a snapping branch.  I thought no way, and continued to walk, Bentlee on edge as well.  We continued to walk a little more and low and behold, what came slumbering out of the trees? Yes, it was the bears again.  Needless to say, we turned around and high tailed it back to the house.  We have had other signs of them hanging in the neighborhood since.   There may come a point they will have to be dealt with and Jerry did talk to the City Manager about them.  We won’t be in Juneau when that happens, but it certainly makes me nervous to take the dogs out in the dark for now.

Thursday, October 05, 2017
We traveled across to North Douglas Island.  The Borough of Juneau approved the construction of the extension of the roadway back in 2015, to eventually connect to the East side of the island near Middle Point.  This area would allow deep water access for the larger fishing boats.  This part of the island is uninhabited for the most part.  The theme I am sensing this week has been "End of the Road".  Once again we traveled to the end.  It was a nice hike.  The project has been extended beyond the initial scope and is still under construction so we had to hike to the end.  Hiking allowed us the opportunity to see all of the huge Sitka Spruce and Hemlock trees, both live and those demolished for the road construction.  It was on this trip that Bentlee also got mixed up with a porcupine again (she obviously did not learn her lesson the first time).

End of the Road

This Beautiful 7 Foot Plus Tree
Will Have to Come Down For the Road

Just as This 5 Foot Tree Already Has

2nd Time this Month We Have Had to Pull Quills

Our visit is coming near an end here in Juneau.  The weather is starting to dip into the 30’s at night.  We need to get back to the RV, hook up and continue on our journey back South.  We will be catching the ferry on Monday the 9th with bittersweet feelings.

We could not have asked for any better weather our second to last day in Juneau.  Signs on the mountains (fresh snow) indicate that it is time for us to move on though.  One big difference between Alaska and Michigan is the drastic change in the ever-changing landscape.  Not only day by day, but minute by minute.

October 07, 2017 - 8:50 a.m - Lots of new snow.

October 07, 2017 - 3:30 p.m.

October 07, 2017 - 4:07 p.m. - from a Different Vantage Point

October 08, 2017 - 1:50 p.m - Hey! Where is the Glacier?